Influencer reveals top Indian sunscreens fail lab SPF tests

New Delhi:A Noida-based influencer and founder of an influencer marketing agency has raised questions over the advertised sun protection of several popular Indian sunscreens, after independent testing revealed that six out of ten products failed to meet their claimed SPF levels.

Nitin Joshi, who has 1.6 million followers on Instagram, shared the findings on October 19, stating that he personally funded the study at a cost of over Rs 2.15 lakh. “I have personally paid for these tests and invested over Rs 2.15 lakh to conduct this study with the sole purpose of educating fellow citizens about what they are applying on their skin,” he wrote.

Tests were conducted at two Government of India–accredited laboratories, MS Clinical Research in Bengaluru and the Centre for Cruelty-Free Testing in Meerut, using in-vitro protocols based on ISO 24443 and COLIPA 2011 standards. 

Joshi noted that while in-vivo testing on human subjects is considered the gold standard, in-vitro testing is “widely recognised as credible and effective for understanding sunscreen performance.”

“The intent of this video is strictly educational, to encourage awareness, informed choices, and conversations around sunscreen and skincare products,” he added. “It also highlights the need for clearer specifications, standards, and gradings in categories such as skincare and sun protection in India.”

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The lab tests revealed significant differences between advertised and measured SPF levels. Among the lowest performers were Renee (claimed SPF 70+, tested SPF 12.81), WishCare (50+, 12.94), and Dot & Key (50+, 14.98), all delivering less than one-third of their claimed protection. Lotus (50+, 16.89) and Deconstruct (55+, 17.82) also fell well below advertised levels.

Only four brands approached or exceeded their advertised SPF: Lakme (50+, 52.96), Minimalist (50+, 78.54), Derma Co. (50+, 79.72), and Aqualogica (50+, 146.08). Foxtale (55+, 36.9) underperformed but remained within a tolerable range.

Others in the skincare community raised concerns over transparency in influencer-brand collaborations, highlighting the increasing trend of coordinated marketing presented as independent reviews.

The controversy comes amid the rapid expansion of India’s Rs 70,000-crore skincare market, where many direct-to-consumer brands rely on third-party formulators and contract manufacturers. 

A 2024 report by the International Market Analysis Research and Consulting Group (IMARC) noted that weak regulatory oversight and white-label manufacturing practices have made SPF mislabelling a recurring issue, mirroring incidents in Australia, where consumer watchdog CHOICE recently found several sunscreens performing well below their advertised protection levels.